HIMALAYAN JOURNEYS

The Annapurna region of Nepal contains some of the greatest trekking trails in the world; none more so than the Annapurna Circuit or the “Around Annapurna” trek which has often been called “the greatest walk in the world.” Many of the people who enjoyed the beauty of the Annapurna circuit originally  started their trek in Dumre on the highway from Kathmandu to Pokhara and then walked through the lowland Brahmin and Chettri villages, sub-tropical forests and then higher to emerge at the high desert region across the Himalayan range. Most walked a total of 27 days from Dumre to Baglung or the relatively shorter 24 days from Dumre to Phedi. Along the trails there were whispered rumors of two valleys to the north which were forbidden to foreigners but which reportedly held great promise.
Then development came. Roads were extended into the more remote reaches and newer air strips were installed such as the one at Jomsom making a Circuit of the Annapurna range possible, first in 20 days and then 17 days! Lodges were built, showers were installed and better lodges were built. Now one can trek from Besisahar to Jomsom without having to once spend a night “outdoors”. This has taken away some of the romance and charm associated with a trek in Nepal. 
Almost as if in protest, changes in rules by the Government of Nepal has now made it possible to get away from the main trail of the Annapurna circuit and yet, enjoy the stunning scenery of the original trek by taking some small detours. The southern horizon is continually dominated by the giants of the Annapurna range including Annapurna II 7937 m., Annapurna III 7555 m., Annapurna IV 7525 m and Gangapurna 7455m among others. One of the bonuses of staying off the beaten path is the visit to the villages of Phu and Nar which had been forbidden to trekkers and had only been visited by some people pretending to climb Pisang Peak from the north!
The trail follows the established route to the village of Koto from Besisahar along the Marsyangdi river valley and then heads north up the Phu river valley  past Postman"s Cave (although there is no record of anyone sighting a postman here or the Nepalese postal system actually delivering mail up this valley!), the villages of Metha 3570 m. and Junam. Continue up the Phu valley past the abandoned settlement of Cheko whose claim to fame is that it was once a forward base for CIA financed Khampa warriors fighting the Chinese occupation of Tibet. The CIA abandoned the fighters and the Nepalese army chased them out after they started harassing the local population.  Proceed then to the village of Kyang and onward to Phu. Of interest in Phu is the Tashi Lakhang Monastery which is said be the last among the 108 monasteries built by Padmasambabha or Guru Rimpoche – the ascetic from Swat (in modern day Pakestan) who is credited with founding the Gelug or the yellow hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Then there is the Dhub Chu (Chu = stream) which, as if by magic, pours out of a rock face and feeds the Phu river. Backtrack to Junam and cross over to the Nar valley and to the village of Nar at 4080m. Cross the Kang La 5340 m. back to the Marsyangdi river valley and the village of Manang.  Spend a day in Manang at one of the many lodges and then continue past Khangsar and Tilicho Base Camp to The far side of Tilicho Lake. Cross over the Mesokanto La 5300m. and descend to Jomsom and fly out to Kathmandu via Pokhara.